Published October 20, 2006
Everything fell into place
rick mcginnis/metro toronto
Pop Bistro co-owners Joe Hume, left, and Marc DeGagne, sit in the restaurant s dining room.
Pop Bistro
Address: 686 Queen St. E.
Phone: 416-461-9663
Dinner: Mon.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m.
Brunch: Sat.-Sun., 9 a.m.-3 p.m.
Capacity: 22
Dinner for 2 w/tax & tip: $80
The diner that used to serve eggs and bacon and club sandwiches since 1962 can be glimpsed behind the bar of Pop Bistro, in the sturdy glass and stainless steel fixtures built in front of the diamond-patterned stainless backsplash that you d pay a fortune for today. When Joe Hume and Marc DeGagne took over the space to open Pop Bistro a year ago, they knew that time and money would prevent them from completely gutting the space, but there was a charm and solidity to the old fixtures that they thought it was worth preserving.
The nostalgic look kind of works for the place, Joe says. It kind of ties in the old with the new, and works as a homage to what was there before. It also updates it. At the same time, you can t get these diamond backsplashes anymore. It worked with what we were doing, that mix of the old and the new.
The two men met working in a now-defunct downtown restaurant, and were shopping around for a place to set their tablecloths when the old Albion Restaurant became vacant. Joe saw the space first, then called Marc, who was still living in Montreal.
I saw the place Sept. 1, Marc recalls. We came to see it that night, and we had closed the deal by the 23rd of September. We started construction/renovation that night, and we were done the last glass went on the table the first of November, which was our goal. It s amazing, as far as I m concerned. It was kismet. Everything just fell into place ...
And we had no idea that the neighbourhood was a groovy as it is, adds Joe.
Their original chef, Florindo Caiella, was replaced by Matthew Moreau, who worked the kitchen until just recently, when health problems forced him to leave. He recommended a friend, Rhett Mather, to take his place, and keep refining the classic bistro menu with its small but significant embellishments.
Rhett has more of a Spanish or a Latin-American accent in his creations, says Joe. And it s been a seamless transition.
We do have a few specials on the weekend, Marc says, and Rhett s influence has shown up there. For instance, one of our specials was whole roasted fish Matthew was doing a Basque-esque baked fish with a julienne of peppers and onion, and Rhett has changed that up with a few salsas.
Lime mango with red onion, Joe adds. And he does a cucumber mint and lime salsa. Because he worked for this great Latin chef. Perhaps going toward next summer we can start working more with that, but with winter coming I d like to stick with basic French.
They decided against opening for lunch from the start, but do a brunch on the weekend that features a trio of classic eggs benedict dishes served on croissants, with a sublime hollandaise sauce and perfectly poached eggs.
Their dinner menu s steak frites is revised as steak and eggs for brunch an immaculately grilled steak served with a tangle of Pops trademark vermicelli-thin fries.
Hume and DeGagne didn t know what to expect from the neighbourhood, but have been more than pleasantly surprised by their regulars.
There s an expectation, an attitude that people who are dining downtown have, that doesn' t exist here, Marc says.
Escargots Provencal on Grilled Baguette Ingredients:
- 9 large escargots
- 5 cloves of roasted garlic or garlic confit
- 5 basil leaves (chopped fine)
- 1/2 tomato (cubed)
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tbsp butter
- Salt and pepper to taste
Directions:
Sauté all of the above items until tomatoes are soft, then deglaze with 1/4 cup white wine. Reduce. Add another 1/2 tbsp butter and emulsify into sauce. Serve in a bowl over toasted baguette. Garnish with a green such as basil leaves. Serves 1.
Review By Simone Cupid A Lesson In POP Culture
